Lake Titikaka, Puno - Peru

Every travel experience brings surprises.  TACA Airlines is a good airline.  New planes, friendly people but a terrible website.  After attempting to book this flight several times I gave up until the next day when I clicked to success. But,,,,my cc bill had four charges for the one flight.  Silly boy.  Within a day, three of the charges had been credited but not the last.  I'm forming a close bond with several customer service people at TACA and the CC company.  Every surprise is educational.  I now speak more clearly, more researched, more directly and more patiently.  I have never needed patience before this !! 

 Landing in Arequipa was smooth and easy.  As we walked to the airport I snapped this picture of the mountains  to the East.  The flight time from Lima took little more than an hour.  Our hosts the Palmers were right outside security to greet up.  They are a couple assigned to Peru in the mining business.  Steve is the 2nd in command and a CPA.   He is a patient kind and very generous person from Arizona.  Janell and Steve have two daughters going to school in Provo.  

Arequipa sits at 7800 ft altitude and inland an hours drive from the Pacific.  The backdrop to the East is the Andes Range, several large volcanoes and beautify countryside, deep ravines and many fields of crops. This man is riding on harvested alfalfa hand cut for his CUY.  What is CUY you ask?  They are protein on four legs about 10 inches long.  They are consumed at the rate of 65 million a year for food.  Very tasty. I experienced my first back in 2007 on our first trip to Peru - Machu Picchu.  The trick to eating COY is to have them delivered to your table already cut up like chicken.  Normally you experience the shock of the roasted protein fully laid out on your plate.  Once in a lifetime is enough.       
 

Laundry day.  The day was actually Friday so laundry day is when you have water at your house or nearby.  This is an irrigation ditch leading to the culinary water supply for Arequipa.  This is how my own mother did laundry when I was born, only in a large tub with a washboard. Women never rest here, working all the time. I learned taking pictures of everything of interest may not always be revered by the subject.  She never knew.   

Sheep are the principle cash source for many locals right near the city.  Others farm a few acres by hand.  Plots are never deeded but stay under family control as a result of squatting and proving up then continuing.  Stay away too long and your field will become the source of some other farmers crops. 

The central Andean area is, thus, a very complex biosphere, and an important prehistoric centre of plant domestication which includes potatoes, maize (Zea mays), lima beans, peppers, yucca or manioc, cotton, squashes and gourds, pineapples, avocado, and coca, as well as many varieties of fruits and other products. 

Please be aware that some of the dialogue is not original with me.  I have taken some research from the internet to add to the understanding of this area.  

The Spanish introduced wheat, barley, rice, and other grains; vegetables like carrots; sugarcane; tea and coffee; and fruits, such as grapes, oranges, and olives. Although there is great diversity in native fauna, the only large domesticated animals are the llamas and alpacas (South American camelids). The addition of Old World cattle, swine, sheep, goats, fowls, and draught animals increased Andean resources and altered work methods, diets, and health.

 Included in our trip was a side trip to Colca Canyon and Puno.  Getting there involves traveling up to 16,250 feet and then down to the Canyon.  The next part was backtracking to a junction that took us on East to Puno.  High about Chivay, a village near the Canyon, vendors including their children set out their wares on blankets and tables.  Children often dressed in native costumes with Vicuna lambs posing for pictures, for a fee.  This child is about Lizzy's age - 10.  You can lose your heart to them.  We chatted with them to the limits of their patience or about 15 seconds.  

 Later in the day the guided group took in a hot springs plunge. These thermal springs are located 3 km from town, a number of heated pools have been constructed. A stone "Inca" bridge crosses the Colca River ravine, just to the north of the town. The town is a popular staging point for tourists visiting Condor Cross or Cruz Del Condor, where condors can be seen catching thermal uplifts a few kilometers downstream. This 'chapel' was thatch roofed and shared a wall with this rock.  Inside was a dirt floor but no furniture.  The hot springs were a popular attraction on that Monday afternoon.  Back in Chivay the locals began to prepare for the evening meal but customers don't begin to appear until after 7:00pm.  Many people in Peru only begin to entertain or eat at restaurants by 8:00 and usually go on late into the night.  If there is music for dancing the hours go on all night.  They love the beat of their Latin music. 

 In the town square of Chivay, this old mill stone sits grandly displayed reflecting the heritage of past generations. Another heritage of Chivay is obsidian. Obsidian is a naturally occurring volcanic glass formed as an extrusive igneous rock.

It is produced when felsic lava extruded from a volcano cools rapidly with minimum crystal growth. Obsidian is commonly found within the margins of rhyolitic lava flows known as obsidian flows, where the chemical composition (high silica content) induces a high viscosity and polymerization degree of the lava. The inhibition of atomic diffusion through this highly viscous and polymerized lava explains the lack of crystal growth. Obsidian is hard and brittle; it therefore fractures with very sharp edges, which had been used in the past in cutting and piercing tools, and are still used as surgical scalpel blades

The Chivay obsidian source is the geological origin of a chemical group of obsidian that is found throughout the south-central Andean highlands including southern Peru and western Bolivia. Chemical characterization studies using X-ray fluorescence  and Neutron Activation Analysis  have shown that the Chivay obsidian source, also known as the Cotallalli type or the Titicaca Basin type, makes up over 90% of the obsidian artifacts analyzed from the Lake Titicaca Basin.  Obsidian from the Chivay source is found in large and homogeneous nodules in a high altitude volcanic depression approximately ten km to the east of the town of Chivay in the Colca Valley (Caylloma, Arequipa, Peru). 

 These colorful tropical flower plants decorated the entire town square garden.  The hummingbirds love these honey producers. Peru is truly a land of superlatives: From the world’s richest oceanic current, to the world’s highest and most extensive tropical mountains, to the rainforests of the world’s largest river, Peru is a country of unparalleled diversity. With 87 of the world’s 104 climate zones, Peru encompasses both the driest desert and the second wettest locality on the planet. 

 

Consider a trip to witness Peru’s unrivaled diversity of birds - from exotic hummingbirds (118 species), cotingas (33 species), and antbirds (142 species), to flocks of hundreds of macaws at clay licks, mixed species flocks of over 60 species, and rare endemics like the White-winged Guan and the flightless Junin Grebe. 

 

"Peru is home to more than 1,800 bird species, 120 of which are found nowhere else in the world. At least five new species have also been discovered as of this year and are still waiting official scientific description.

The diversity of bird species in Peru stems from its ecological and geographical diversity. On the coast, the Pacific Ocean laps at parched desert. Inland, dry forest and scrub land rise to the snow-capped Andes. Toward the east, cloud forests spill into the Amazon Basin"

Reaching Puno late the second day, we awoke to discover the unbounded beauty of clear pristine waters Lake Titikaka.  After a cooked to order breakfast and fresh yogurt drink our pre-arranged taxi picked us up right on time and delivered us to the dock.  Our guide service from Arequipa delivered 100% in timeliness and value.  Puno is a place of places on the edge of the largest navigable lake at this altitude in the world.  We had arranged to see a few of the nearer islands known as the UROS islands.  These are within a couple of miles from the dock.  The islands are floating pods of reeds layered to support houses and people permanently. 

The Uros are a pre-Incan people who live on forty-two self-fashioned floating islands in Lake Titicaca Puno, Peru and Bolivia. They form three main groups: Uru-Chipayas, Uru-Muratos and the Uru-Iruitos. The latter are still located on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca and Desaguadero River.

The Uros use bundles of dried totora reeds to make reed boats (balsas mats), and to make the islands themselves.

The Uros islands at 3810 meters above sea level are just five kilometers west from Puno port. Around 2,000 descendants of the Uros were counted in the 1997 census, although only a few hundred still live on and maintain the islands; most have moved to the mainland. The Uros also bury their dead on the mainland in special cemeteries.

The Uros do not reject modern technology: some boats have motors, some houses have solar panels to run appliances such as televisions, and the main island is home to an Uros-run FM radio station, which plays music for several hours a day.

Early schooling is done on several islands, including a traditional school and a school run by a Christian church. Older children and university students attend school on the mainland, often in nearby Puno.

 

The Uros descend from a millennial town that, according to legends, are "pukinas" who speak Uro or Pukina and that believe they are the owners of the lake and water. Uros used to say that they have black blood because they did not feel the cold. Also they call themselves "Lupihaques" (Sons of The Sun). Nowadays, Uros do not speak the Uro language, nor practice their old beliefs but keep some old customs.

The purpose of the island settlements was originally defensive, and if a threat arose they could be moved. The largest island retains a watchtower almost entirely constructed of reeds.

The Uros traded with the Aymara tribe on the mainland, intermarrying with them and eventually abandoning the Uro language for that of the Aymara. About 500 years ago they lost their original language. When conquered by the Inca empire, they had to pay taxes to them, and often were made slaves.

The larger islands house about ten families, while smaller ones, only about thirty meters wide, house only two or three.

Multi-Generational Family

The islets are made of totora reeds, which grow in the lake. The dense roots that the plants develop and interweave form a natural layer called Khili (about one to two meters thick) that support the islands. They are anchored with ropes attached to sticks driven into the bottom of the lake. The reeds at the bottoms of the islands rot away fairly quickly, so new reeds are added to the top constantly, about every three months; this is what it makes exciting for tourists when walking on the island.This is especially important in the rainy season when the reeds rot much faster. The islands last about thirty years.

Jefferson offered me his pencil

Each step on an island sinks about 2-4" depending on the density of the ground underfoot. As the reeds dry, they break up more and more as they are walked upon. As the reed breaks up and moisture gets to it, it rots, and a new layer has to be added to it. It is a lot of work to maintain the islands. Because the people living there are so infiltrated with tourists now, they have less time to maintain everything, so they have to work even harder in order to keep up with the tourists and with the maintenance of their island. Tourism provides financial opportunities for the natives, while simultaneously challenging their traditional lifestyle.

Not so much locales

Much of the Uros' diet and medicine also revolve around these totora reeds. When a reed is pulled, the white bottom is often eaten for iodine. This prevents goitres. This white part of the reed is called the chullo (Aymara [tʃʼuʎo]). Like the Andean people of Peru rely on the Coca Leaf for relief from a harsh climate and hunger, the Uros rely on the Totora reeds in the same way. When in pain, the reed is wrapped around the place in pain to absorb it. Also if it is hot outside, they roll the white part of the reed in their hands and split it open, placing the reed on their forehead. In this stage, it is very cool to the touch. The white part of the reed is also used to help ease alcohol-related hangovers. It is a primary source of food. They also make a reed flower tea.

Local residents fish ispi, carachi and catfish. Trout was introduced to the lake from Canada in 1940, and kingfish^{[disambiguation needed ]} was introduced from Argentina. Uros also hunt birds such as seagulls, ducks and flamingos, and graze their cattle on the islets. They also run crafts stalls aimed at the numerous tourists who land on ten of the islands each year. They barter totora reeds on the mainland in Puno to get products they need, such as quinoa and other foods.

Food is cooked with fires placed on piles of stones. To relieve themselves, tiny 'outhouse' islands are near the main islands. The ground root absorbs the waste.

 When the touristas come to visit the natives welcomed us with open arms, into their homes and their family. This photo was taken by a small girl who became intrigued with it.  She took a few throw a ways but did capture this errant travelers fairly well.   

  The water is generally more than calm and placid.  It becomes transfixing and alluring, peaceful and inviting. This young couple from Chile were friendly travelers.  We meet so many wonderful people in South America.   

Five major river systems feed into Lake Titicaca. In order of their relative flow volumes these are Ramis, Coata, Ilave, Huancané, and Suchez. More than 20 other smaller streams empty into Titicaca, and the lake has 41 islands, some of which are densely populated.

Having only a single season of free circulation, the lake is monomictic and water passes through Lago Huiñaimarca and flows out the single outlet at the Rio Desaguadero, which then flows south through Bolivia to Lake Poopó. 

This only accounts for about 10% of the lake's water balance. Evapotranspiration, caused by strong winds and intense sunlight at altitude, balances the remaining 90% of the water input. It is nearly a closed lake.
  
 On the evening of the third day we traveled the 180 miles back over the high mountain road back to Arequipa by commercial bus.  Our guides and helpers had done their excellent job and we were comfortable traveling unaccompanied.  The trip was more than interesting.  It had all the elements of the unknown in an unknown land.  Traveling north from Puno, the road goes through Juliaca then turns west and constantly climbs from 12,000 to 16,000 plus ft altitude.  About three hours into the six hour trip, we ran into snow.  The snow continued until we had slowed to a mere crawl still climbing higher.  

I'm never a white knuckle passenger but I was concerned we would have to turn around.  Traffic continued to pass.  That was a good sign.  The driver was excellent, safe and cautious.  Looking out the steamed over window in the pitch darkness gave me no image whatsoever.  Promises were made and prayers were said.  This is a bus the size of a small village and it was spinning out.  We crept along for an hour more, passed the outlying towns on the edge of nothing, still passing oncoming traffic.  


We finally reached the summit and started down toward Arequipa.  The snow faded gradually and we began to gain some speed.  Progress was evident, as was the safe transportation back.  Arriving about 30 minutes behind schedule I phoned Steve Palmer when I could see the lights of the city.  He would meet us at the central bus terminal.  That meeting wasn't facilitated much by the loss of electricity so we searched for baggage numbers in the dark but came through eventually ok.  Steve and his security man Edgar came out of the darkness guided by my Panama hat I wear constantly to protect my chrome dome. 

The next day was a chance to take another long walk into the canyon leading up to the Volcano.  Along the way the small farm steads dotted the valley.  Remember, nothing is mechanized so this donkey carrying  one of the farmers is nothing unusual except to us softie gringos. 

Steve and Janell live in the NW section of Arequipa called Cerra Colorado in a gated guarded walled compound.   Their area is regarded as very upscale.  Guards protect them every minute of the day and night.  This means multiple guards everywhere.  Working as expats in a foreign country has pluses but it has things like guards than confine.  Privacy is fine inside their home but don't think of going anywhere by yourselves, even though you have a company provided SUV.  The risk is just too high.  Persceptions of Norte Americanos include few realities but in many ways we understand why such persceptions exist.  One of the Temple workers says Peruvians think gringos have wallets stuffed with money.  

 Arequipa is a lovely city where you can find the finest food, lodging and weather anywhere.  This sillar stone is natural volcanic materials used in most of the 'White City'.  The next morning we joined a city tour bus, double decker style, and listened to the description of sights and lifestyles in this wonderful city.  We could have booked it for four hours but chose the 2 hour version, then found a place for lunch and a nice walk around El Centro.

Most places in Peru use about the same kind of building style.  This one is a small restaurant, one of many found in every part of town.  No matter where you go there are little convenience places to get lunch, snacks or drinks. Along the streets kiosks manned by brave self employed folks sell their products day after day, patiently existing on what the public will buy.  Everyone sells the same thing in the street in the way of snacks.  Either you can by personal size cookie packets, crackers, candy or drinks etc.

Behind me is the wide expanse valley where homes and farmers exist side by side.  The customs haven't changed in decades but people seem content and peaceful.  Nationally, Peruvians are not wealthy.  The poverty line is very low signifying the large numbers who simple exist.  Their older population is reluctant to change old habits and will work until they die.  Younger Peruvians see the value of education and progress.  Although many young people settle for traditional jobs, many have sought the university life or specialty trades.    

El Centro square is rimmed by beautiful sillar buildings.  People flock to these areas to work and play.  Schools exist in many areas so plenty of young people bustle here and there.  Food choices tend more to the local fare but plenty of other choices exist too. 

 Mt Chachani is the middle of three volcanoes situated in the valley north of town.  As we climbed out on take-off, this scene shone above the clouds.