Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Jungle Tour


 Sunday morning we took a motorized rickshaw from the Cocos Hotel to Church in La Merced.  Everyone was friendly, greeting us warmly as  their own.  Afterward two young chaps hung out with us while Claudia took this photo.  I had adopted grandsons for a few minutes.  Their Mom had plenty to do teaching a class.  This ward has minimal activity. The missionaries told us they could use some local help.  Since most people here work the land or do manual labor, their time seems devoted more to work than service to others for now but the modest  economy is not unique for most places in Peru.  It is growing but the living standard has more to go to grow the middle class.  

 Monday morning we were off on the Amazon Basin tour.  

Native dress along with face paint was provided to each guest in this village.  Tourism is alive and well throughout the Amazon Basin of Peru including the deepest parts accessible.  Foreign dollars supplement the economy greatly yet values continue low compared to western standards.  Hotel rooms, food and transportation are roughly half as costly here.  Tourists come from many countries in South America but the USA has the most numbers and dollars.   Yet, the focus on money is hardly noticeable.  There is a level of self consciousness so low as to lack any pride at all.  Clear eyes looking into ours, sharing their simple story, or greeting us, or helping with our simple needs like  directions to places, ride possibilities or meeting times.  

 



Visiting the jungle is a once in a lifetime experience.  Monday's trip into the Perene area was filled with several small side trips such as  Puente Quimiri, Perfil de Nativo Dormido, Mirado Villa Progreso, Pampa Michi, Catarata de Bayoz, Catarata Velo de la Novia, Almuerzo Tipico Playa El Pescador, and Paseo en Bote.     (a trip on a boat)

Our first stop was near the eastern edge of town.  We got out of the van beside a road side cafe, walking toward the Rio Perené.  There was a suspension bridge with capacity to drive a small vehicle, board slats running perpendicular to the length and track boards perpendicular to the slats.   The bridge swayed as you walked but didn't give an insecure feeling.  The river current below was moving very swiftly.  The span over the river measured about 150 yards.  On the other side we talked about the undergrowth of the vegetation and saw physical evidence of the extensive nature of vines growing from everywhere.  David told us about the history of the area. 
And the history is fascinating.  Perené district, was the territory of the Ashaninka culture for centuries, where they exchanged goods, cotton blankets, salt and wild bird feathers such as the parrot and wild animals native to the Andean.  Original man likely were The Turumas, pre-Inca culture, within whom there was a business relationship.  When it became more troubled they exchanged their products with the Incas.

In 1641, the river Perené was navigated first by missionary Francisco Matias Illescas who sought to evangelize the natives. There were many attempts to evangelize the Ashaninka by Franciscan missionaries, but they were expelled for trying to change the native way of life and religion, many of these acts were carried out violently.
For nearly one hundred years, the Central Forest remained closed for settlers and missionaries, following the failed attempt of evangelization and environment turmoil that existed in the territory.  In 1742 Asháninka saw Juan Santos Atahualpa lead a Revolt in the Jungle Central, especially for the territory of the district Perené.  In 1775 while driving back with the Franciscan missionaries he was killed by a native, who was hoping for his resurrection, because he was considered by the native community to be the son of God.

So the years passed, until the area was evangelized as part of the Ashaninka, ceding their territory to colonization thus benefiting Andean and European settlers.

In 1891 the Government of Peru, gave Cooper Pervian Corporation a concession of 500,000 hectares of land in the Perené Valley.

Between 1950 and 1960, organized groups of farmers from the central highlands decided to take possession of the lands of Cooper Peruvian Corporation, entering various sectors including Under Yurinaki and take possession of Florida region while others reached the bridge Quimiri Villa Amoretti, with others locating in Villa Anashironi, Port Victoria, Sotani, etc.

The jungle isn't as dense as imagined.  Undergrowth IS everywhere but the variety of plants depends on the terrain and rainfall of each specific area.  This area isn't flat and intensely overgrown but very mountainous with trees and plants everywhere although passable to walk through.  The tour started from La Merced Chanchamayo.  Our group included young couples from other parts of Peru.  Most were in their 20's or 30's.  As we drove away from the Plaza de Armas our guide (David) talked a little then asked us to introduce ourselves and tell where we were from and a little about us.  David spoke only Spanish except for some brief explanation of one provincial dialect used by one of the native village people.  It wasn't Cechuan (whose words we are a little familiar with such as  coca, condor, guano, gaucho, guanaco, Inca, jerky, lagniappe, lima [bean], llama, pampa, puma, quipu, quinine, quinoa, and vicuña.)
Next we visited a native village where we could listen to the stories from the natives.  Children and adults dressed in their native costume or not, came out to greet us and invited us to share their village.  They dressed us as one of them, painted our faces and shared their hospitality.  This area was fun to visit as were the others but people always take precedence over places. I could understand some of what he told us but not all.  We all felt his charm and openness to share his knowledge.  When I asked questions I spoke words that came to my mind after rehearsing the question before I spoke.  He understood mostly or asked me to repeat the question.  Language can be more of a problem if you let it be.  This wasn't the case for this trip.  David appears to be a native from a local tribe because of his height and facial features.  He wore his hair long and stood a little over 5 feet in height.  

 The Perené River (Spanish: Río Perenéon the eastern slopes of the South American Andes.
It is formed at the confluence of the Chanchamayo River and the Paucartambo rivers, 15 km above the community of Perené, actually two pueblos of Santa Ana and Pampa Silva divided by the river, at 650 m above sea level. It is formed at the confluence of the Chanchamayo River and the Paucartambo rivers, 15 km above the community of Perené, actually two pueblos of Santa Ana and Pampa Silva divided by the river, at 650 meters above sea level.
The river flows in a south-easterly direction; its length is 165 km. Downstream the Perené joins the Ene River, 10 km below the community of Puerto Ocopa, and is called the Tambo River until it flows into the Amazon.
At a naranja (Orange) plantation we overlooked the confluence of two smaller rivers high on a bluff.  Fresh orange juice was available for $.50 a glass.  Other fruits and berries also grew wild there.  I picked fruit from one tree that grew in bunches similar to cherry tomatoes but was sweet in flavor.  There was a large area to gather under a cabana where tables were nicely arranged.  The area was well maintained as compared to most of the others.  
 The next area we visited included two water falls (catarata).  The first was a little hike beside the roaring river coming from high up.  Footing was narrow and slippery but handrails had been installed.  The walk was no more than ten minutes before the trail climbed sharply upward clinging to the rock face against the river.  At the top was a beautiful waterfall with several layers cascading down.  Several in the group decided it would be fun to enjoy the water.  First the guys took off their shirts and in trunks walked into the shallow river toward a waterfall whose width was about 100 feet.  Water falling above this level from two more levels created a moisture and mist in the air that was very refreshing in the heat of the day.  I didn't join those who got in but took lots of pictures for them.    Below these falls was another falls known as 'Catarata Velo de la Novia'  better recognized as Bridle Veil Falls.  Walking down the trail along the fast moving smaller stream you could hear the sound coming up from far below.  As I approached the edge of the bank I could see the water cascading over the smooth rock river bed and down several hundred feet to the pool below.  The pathway ran along side the river to the edge then along the rock wall to the left then steps led to observation ledges below where I took several pictures.  The ravine below was lush with water flowing from two directions forming a much larger clear mountain flow.  

Each location was equipped with Banos or restrooms (bano means bath in Spanish so they refer to them as banos with some latitude for interpretation since most don't have a bath facility.  Vendors never miss an opportunity to exchange their wares or food for cash.  Fair included cherisos and fried plantane or banana.  Both were good tasting and safe to consume.  Water for drinking is generally regarded with caution.  Taking a water bottle filled with clean water is always a good idea no matter where you go.  In S.A. its double important so you can enjoy your travels free of stomach issues.  

Next we the return journey along the road stopping at a coffee plantation.  Prior to the plantation we stopped for dinner at one of the many set up along every town and village.  This one was marginal but the tour company must have had an arrangement with remuneration.  Then the plantation visit was next.    This stop contained visiting a processing location for coffee plus other commodities such as exotic liquors and chocolate. The chocolate was purely wonderful but the real purpose was to tell us about the liquor they made.  Samples were freely shared and most imbibed.  I chose some chocolate 100% cacao and helado (ice cream) for a treat.  What a fun day with some very nice people.  The feeling of being comfortable everywhere we travel seems unusual.  Our minds had been conditioned to be more cautious and untrusting.  Not the case.  Reasonable caution is still a good idea in more dangerous places.  This isn't one of those places.  

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