Monday, February 11, 2013

Thursday the 31st was an experience in the high country.  As said, the altitude in Tarma is a little higher than we're all acclimated to generally.  Lima is at sea level so when you climb to such great elevations acclimation is an issue.  Our first half hour out of Tarma took us back west and higher into the tops of the Andes.  From Lima we had traveled East and toward the continental divide.  Reaching the top and down toward Tarma the altitude reached very high at 15,800 ft.  Just as in the US, the continental divide determines the direction of the flow of rainfall into one of the two oceans.  Those tiny drops become little streams and collectively they fall from the most beautifully clear waterfalls as they cascade down the mountains.  These number in the hundreds on one river that flows progressively toward the Atlantic via the Amazon.  The Amazon Basin is the part of South America drained by the Amazon River and its tributaries that drains an area of about 6,915,000  sq. km. (2,670,000 sq. mi), or roughly 40 percent of South America. The basin is located in the countries of Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Peru, and Venezuela.  Most of the basin is covered by the Amazon rainforest, also known as Amazonia. With a 8,235,430 sq. km (3,179,720 sq. mi.) area of dense tropical forest, this is the largest rainforest in the world, slightly smaller than the entire United States including Alaska and Hawaii.
High on the eastern edge of this Basin is the mountain plateau.   Because of its latitude, this elevation is unique where no trees grow, the only animals are those able to stand the altitude.  Llamas, vicuña, some sheep and really tough cattle are on the list.  The Altiplano (also known as Andean Plateau) (Spanish for high plain), in west-central South America, where the Andes are at their widest, is the most extensive area of high plateau on Earth outside of Tibet.Lake Titicaca is its best known geographical feature.
 The llama (English pronunciation: /ˈlɑːmə/; Spanish: [ˈʎama] locally: [ˈʝama] or [ˈʒama]) (Lama glama) is a domesticated South American camelid, widely used as a meat and pack animal by Andean cultures since pre-Hispanic times.
The height of a full-grown, full-size llama is 1.7 to 1.8 m (5.5 to 6.0 ft) tall at the top of the head, and can weigh between 130 to 200 kilograms (280 to 450 lb). At birth, a baby llama (called a cria) can weigh between 9 and 14 kilograms (20 and 30 lb). Llamas can live for a period of about 20–30 years depending on how well they are taken care of.  Llamas are very social animals and live with other llamas as a herd. The wool produced by a llama is very soft and lanolin-free. Llamas are intelligent and can learn simple tasks after a few repetitions. When using a pack, llamas can carry about 25% to 30% of their body weight for 8–13 km (5–8 miles).[1]
The name llama (in the past also spelled 'lama' or 'glama') was adopted by European settlers from native Peruvians.

A traditionally dressed Quechua girl with a llama in CuzcoPeru


Llamas appear to have originated from the central plains of North America about 40 million years ago. They migrated to South America about 3 million years ago. By the end of the last ice age (10,000–12,000 years ago), camelids were extinct in North America. As of 2007, there were over 7 million llamas and alpacas in South America and, due to importation from South America in the late 20th century, there are now over 158,000 llamas and 100,000 alpacas in the United States and Canada.
Using llamas as livestock guards in North America began in the early 1980s, and some sheep producers have used llamas successfully since then. They are used most commonly in the western regions of the United States, where larger predators, such as the coyote, are prevalent. Typically, a single gelding (castrated male) is used.
In the Inca empire, llamas were the only beasts of burden, and many of the peoples dominated by the Inca had long traditions of llama herding. For the Inca nobility, the llama was of symbolic significance, and llama figures were often buried with the dead.In South America, llamas are still used as beasts of burden, as well as for the production offiber and meat.
 Stone and adobe out buildings litter the landscape  in the high country.  The district of San Pedro de Cajas is one of the nine districts of the Peruvian province of Tarma, in the Junin region. The meaning of the word "box" comes from the word Cacas or Gagash meaning "rocks" to be located between rocks and scree, altitude 3.950 m Dry frigid climate and a population of 8.923 inhabitants. Most of the district's population lives in urban areas while more than 30% have agriculture as their main occupation. Among the major crops in the area include the potato and the other percentage is dedicated to craftsmanship that is the development of tapestry wool.  Among the traditional dishes include the pot and Jaka Locro.  Mr. Rodrigo Matos Mendieta, who conducted studies on the origin of the first inhabitants of chocolate or Junin plateau, specifying who must have been nomadic and settled by the abundance of food products of different origin, vegetable: the acshu, Quechua name of the pope, of different shapes and colors, plus the mauna shire and producing in adjacent streams, maca especially on high: quadrupeds: llama, alpaca, guanaco, vicuña, deer, Brocket, etc; rodents: vizcachas and guinea pigs, birds: ducks, aynos, huachuas, yanavicos, frailescos, whistles, partridges; ichthyological: catfish and frog.


A town in progress according to the thinking of the authorities of the time, felt that the municipal agent should have an office where citizens meet, with that concern local built a foundation stone, adobe walls, palisade and chacla of quinual and thatched roof, after some renewed fire accidents with corrugated roof. It was two floors, the first with the door that faces the square and two windows, the second floor with a door to the west connected by a flight of stone, an enclosed balcony railing balusters and by communicating with the interior one door and two windows overlooking square wing. At present this is the photo of the Municipaiidad of San Pedro de Cajas.

Near San Pedro de Cajas is a spring containing natural salty water.  In fact, there are two pools, one with clear salty water and one with brownish salty water.  We tasted both of the waters and found them equally salty.  The origin of this place is a place of worship with one pool representing the sun and one of the moon.



 A visit to a weaver in San Pedro gave us insight into art of making so many products from wool or alpaca.  The natural fibre is dyed using plant materials dissolved in water for days then soaking the fibre.  The bottles to her left show the hues of vibrant color.  Behind her are various tapestries.  We bought the one on her right shoulder for S/.100 or about $40.  Her time taken to make it was about a week.
Next Claudia tried her hand at rolling it into thick yarn for the weaving.  Rather than continuous strands in the weaving, sections were placed against a pattern died onto the loom strands to produce the tapestry.  Those behind her are good examples.  In addition she made lovely clothing from alpaca fibre then sold her products in her own shop situated beneath their home.
 This woman had such a gift creating the beautiful products on either her loom or by weaving by hand.  The shop was filled with products or in process projects and materials.  Her husband and family we involved in the work along with raising a garden, flower cultivation and Cuy raising for a little protein.  Just below are the stairs lined with flower pots leading to their home above the sales shop.  On a footprint measuring 50 ft by 60 ft this family flourishes.

 Our next side venture was to a cave spring deeply imbedded into the side of the hill from which water flows continuously.  A short hike along a flowery trail led to the mouth of the cavern.  Inside the flowing water ran next to a stone pathway.  Deeper into the cave a ladder leads to high rooms where stalactites and stalagmites forming interesting patterns.  Each was alive or colored rather than white limestone indicating the continuous nature of water flow.
The Andes is the longest continental mountain range in the world. It is a continual range of highlands along the western coast of South America. This range is about 7,000 km (4,300 mi) long, about 200 km (120 mi) to 700 km (430 mi) wide (widest between 18° south and 20° south latitude), and of an average height of about 4,000 m (13,000 ft). The Andes extend from north to south through seven South American countries: VenezuelaColombiaEcuadorPeruBoliviaChile andArgentina.
Along its length, the Andes is split into several ranges, which are separated by intermediate depressions. The Andes is the location of several high plateaux – some of which host major cities such as QuitoBogotáArequipaMedellínSucre, and La Paz. The so-called Altiplano plateau is the world's second-highest plateau following the Tibetan plateau.
The Andes range is the world's highest mountain range outside of Asia. The highest peak, Mount Aconcagua, rises to an elevation of about 6,962 m (22,841 ft) abovesea level. The peak of Chimborazo in the Ecuadorean Andes is farther from Earth's center than any other location on Earth's surface, due to the equatorial bulgeresulting from Earth's rotation. The world's highest volcanoes are in the Andes, including Ojos del Salado on the Chile-Argentina border which rises to 6,893 m (22,615 ft). Over fifty other Andean volcanoes also rise above 6,000 m (19,685 ft).

As we left Tarma, the greenery was ample but no lush.  As we came closer to about 5,000 feet in elevation it got more and more dense until it began to look overgrown.  Then from the density banana plants began to appear and taller and larger trees.  Often it was difficult to see into the thicket more than a few feet.  Water falls began to appear on both side of this narrow but very deep canyon into which the road was carved.  Many places the road had washed off into the raging river limiting traffic to a single lane.  Our driver, Gregorio was excellent, cautious and attentive to our needs. He talked with us about each new town or area as we passed through.  Much of what he said we could not totally grasp but on the whole we got what he had to say.  There was on place where a temporary bridge had been constructed allowing traffic to pass.  A massive rain storm had wiped out the original bridge sometime about 5 years ago.  The construction urgency is apparently not severe enough to replace it so the temporary span is doing the job.



Amazon River basin (the southern Guianas, not marked on this map, are part of the basin)

The mouth of the Amazon River, the second longest[1] river in the world.

This route is a principle transport link from the farms and their production of fruits and vegetables as well as replacement parts, products from Lima and other needs.  I estimate the traffic is 95% commercial in some way or another.  Trucks carrying well over 20 ton passed us often headed back up to Tarma and on to Lima.  Other commercial vehicles included smaller trucks and taxis.  The traffic is continual night and day.

One transportation method employed by the sedan type taxis is the 'collectivo'.  This arrangement is made to accomodate the needs of the traveling public as they attempt to travel and share the extra room in vehicles.  Several people will jointly hire the auto because of the time and destination then share the cost that previously was born by fewer riders.  As an example, we hired a vehicle without using the collectivo concept and paid about S/.100.  The driver could have sold any extra seats and increased his revenue or reduced our per person cost.  Collectivo arrangements are a common widely used method of  cost containment.  The only drawback for foreigner is finding them.  Travel knowledge is more tribal here but talking to locals is one of several keys to finding good transportation.

From our place in San Ramon we can see directly into the most dense jungle.   Guides will be the safest and most sure way to access and learn the most for now.  Most common sights are freely accessible.  Finding them and learning details is the key for foreigners.


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